Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:46 pm

MrCaliKrome wrote:
Brakelate wrote:Let her cool about half and hour and it was good to go. The smell of clutch in these cars smells like.... VICTORY! :mrgreen: It means your tires were hooked, you were in your powerband and you were slipping the clutch out at an appropriate rate to maintain traction. Sweet.

It may just be 'glazed' over. Put street tires on it and normally road drive it a few days. Mine has come back from the dead several times from this, both with the stock clutch, and my Centerforce unit. If it is at the point that it won't hook, and just spools up into a freewheel at WOT in 3rd or so, then it is toast. Time for a new clutch. Hell, go get 4.10's while you are there... no one said this shit was cheap, or non-addicting, right? Then that 4lbs lower, the Whipple, the solid rear axle, then... awwfuck, you are in the Tens! And one broke motherfather! :lol:


Footnotes; Drive it normal for a while, after it cools, odds are it will be fine. ;)


Ok, I'll cruise it around a few days on street tires and see how it feels. I'm hoping it will regain it's strength like you encountered in the past.

And yes, it is tempting to do a few more mods and shoot for the 10s BUT I bought this Vert to cruise. Had I bought a coupe without Mystichrome paint I'd probably not flinch at turning it into a drag car.


I'm even tempted to locate a higher mileage low cost Terminator coupe and swap parts and use it for track days and keep the Mystichrome for daily cruiser.

A buddy who has a shop said one of his customers had one she was trying to unload for $11K. He didn't see it in person so not sure condition but it was an original female owner who was probably looking to get a couple bucks more than trade in due to the OD being @ 100K.

Would be a perfect starting point assuming it didn't need a new motor?
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sat Jan 25, 2014 2:51 pm

jhwalker wrote:
Great job :clap: We all have made multiple offerings to the Clutch God. :-D

My memory fades on the variety of clutches that I had, but everyone else is younger and will love to give you advice.

I am a little surprised on the warning... but I guess things change over time. Again, well done!


I'm surprised at the warning too! I felt really blessed I was able to cruise it home with no issues????

I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch. Previous owner had installed.

not sure as to the normal behavior characteristics?
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sat Jan 25, 2014 3:12 pm

03_SONIC_BLUR wrote:Well, like I said earlier in this thread, learn to change a clutch. It is a necessary skill that can be done in your driveway with floor jacks, jack stands and a trans jack

First you have to decide, which clutch? Ford Racing? Aftermarket? Some of the aftermarket clutches have bad driving manners and hit the drivetrain harder than the Ford Racing clutch kit

Members here have run virtually all of them, let's hope they chime in with their experiences

I had the Spec 3. It clamped, it didn't slip, it took abuse. It chattered like a mofo, and it was stiff as hell. Lots of Pedal pressure

I am running the Ford Racing clutch kit now. Better manners, less pedal effort, doesn't clamp as well. Performance is always a tradeoff


The car had the Centerforce dual friction clutch in the car when I bought it so that is all I know and pedal feel although heavy is Ok with me. I'll post the details a little later of the set up I got from the previous owner.

I have a buddy named Warren who has a small shop ( www.spot28auto.com ) with two lifts that is always willing to lend them out and a hand or just do the whole job himself depending on what I prefer. He is a "good karma" guy and his shop is actually down the street from Irwindale, literally off Live Oak street although technically he is in Arcadia.

He has a blown C5 Vette himself and is knowledgeable about all kinds of cars import and domestic. Anything I can't do myself I take all my cars to him, even though he is a LONG way from where I live. Good mechanics are hard to find and are worth the drive.

With that said, if you guys were ever in need of a lift or a hand or just didn't have time or the desire to do a job, he is the rare mechanic I would lend my reputation to and recommend without any hesitation.
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby 03_SONIC_BLUR » Sat Jan 25, 2014 9:37 pm

I'm sure doing a clutch on a lift is easier, just need a trans jack for that application. First thing to disconnect when doing a clutch is the battery. Forget that step, expect sparks/impromptu arc welding :-D

Don't forget to mark the driveshaft on both ends to index it so you don't get a vibration after reinstallation

You'll need the funny star socket for the U-Joint to disconnect the drive shaft, a plug for the trans tail shaft to keep the fluid from leaking all over the place and a clutch alignment tool. And a puller for the pilot bearing

Can't think of any other specialty tools needed. It's a pretty simple straightforward job
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sat Jan 25, 2014 10:14 pm

03_SONIC_BLUR wrote:I'm sure doing a clutch on a lift is easier, just need a trans jack for that application. First thing to disconnect when doing a clutch is the battery. Forget that step, expect sparks/impromptu arc welding :-D

Don't forget to mark the driveshaft on both ends to index it so you don't get a vibration after reinstallation

You'll need the funny star socket for the U-Joint to disconnect the drive shaft, a plug for the trans tail shaft to keep the fluid from leaking all over the place and a clutch alignment tool. And a puller for the pilot bearing

Can't think of any other specialty tools needed. It's a pretty simple straightforward job


Thanks for the heads up. Will disconnect the batt and mark the driveshaft.

Do you think I could just replace the Disc since the clutch is not completely fried or do I need to get a whole clutch pack (pressure plate + disc) and resurface the flywheel?
Last edited by MrCaliKrome on Sat Jan 25, 2014 10:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sat Jan 25, 2014 10:16 pm

Here is what the previous owner stated was on the car when I purchased it:

Centerforce Dual Friction clutch / Ford Racing clutch fork / Fidanza aluminum flywheel (replaceable friction plate) / ARP Pro Series flywheel bolts / Ford Racing heavy duty TOB / Ford Racing roller pilot bearing / Lethal Performance forged steel TOB retainer sleeve
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby Tetge » Sun Jan 26, 2014 12:52 am

I was searching around for the rules that apply to the 1/8th and I found this post of the official NHRA conversion of 1/8th times to corresponding 1/4 mile times. I thought that it might be of interest to 1/8th lovers. Since quicker than 13.5 requires a roll bar in a vert at a 1/4 mile track, you can see where Irwindale got the 8.25 from by looking at the list. So it is apparent that they either did not know that your vert had a bar or it was deemed not NHRA good at tech. Also, 11.99 requires a 7.49 in the 1/8th, per their conversion, and this sort of agrees with what I have said, but, they generalized and results at an 1/8th track may not translate to the same converted results at another. However, they are not too far off with their conversions as my worst 1/8 that got an 11 sec run at Famoso was 7.773 (11.995 @ 118.170), so generally better than a 7.7 would be required to do an 11 at Famoso, as the 118+ trap speed tells me that I powered to that 11 in spite of a bad 1/8th, caused by a bad 1.816, 60' time, which almost certainly caused by spin.

6.000=3.66
7.490=4.49
7.500=4.50
9.990=6.39
10.00=6.40
11.49=7.35
11.50=7.36
11.99=7.49
12.00=7.50
13.50=8.26
13.99=8.59
14.00=8.6
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby MrCaliKrome » Sun Jan 26, 2014 3:13 am

Tetge wrote:I was searching around for the rules that apply to the 1/8th and I found this post of the official NHRA conversion of 1/8th times to corresponding 1/4 mile times. I thought that it might be of interest to 1/8th lovers. Since quicker than 13.5 requires a roll bar in a vert at a 1/4 mile track, you can see where Irwindale got the 8.25 from by looking at the list. So it is apparent that they either did not know that your vert had a bar or it was deemed not NHRA good at tech. Also, 11.99 requires a 7.49 in the 1/8th, per their conversion, and this sort of agrees with what I have said, but, they generalized and results at an 1/8th track may not translate to the same converted results at another. However, they are not too far off with their conversions as my worst 1/8 that got an 11 sec run at Famoso was 7.773 (11.995 @ 118.170), so generally better than a 7.7 would be required to do an 11 at Famoso, as the 118+ trap speed tells me that I powered to that 11 in spite of a bad 1/8th, caused by a bad 1.816, 60' time, which almost certainly caused by spin.

6.000=3.66
7.490=4.49
7.500=4.50
9.990=6.39
10.00=6.40
11.49=7.35
11.50=7.36
11.99=7.49
12.00=7.50
13.50=8.26
13.99=8.59
14.00=8.6


Thanks for posting this info. :teasing-signhere:

Also really appreciate you providing the minimum target of 7.7 @ 90 based on your experience. :orcs-cheers:

Based on this it seems like the Terminator has good top end pull. Will be nice to experience it on a 1/4 track for myself!
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby Brakelate » Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:19 am

Don't absolutely live and die by the data in regards to numbers. My car is sort of odd, as it always has trapped lower than most running the same ET. Best we could nail it down to, was my use of throw away Bias Ply tires that seem to rob you of about two or three mph on 1/4 mi trap speed.

I generally run right around 118, while most can pull all the way up to 120, or a little more with good air. That last 30 mph rush is why I prefer to run the quarter. For all the cost and effort, I like to whistle along for another four seconds or so at higher than So Cal freeway speeds. :P
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Re: Thursday Night Thunder - Irwindale - Jan 9, 2014

Postby 03_SONIC_BLUR » Sun Jan 26, 2014 10:46 am

MrCaliKrome wrote:
03_SONIC_BLUR wrote:I'm sure doing a clutch on a lift is easier, just need a trans jack for that application. First thing to disconnect when doing a clutch is the battery. Forget that step, expect sparks/impromptu arc welding :-D

Don't forget to mark the driveshaft on both ends to index it so you don't get a vibration after reinstallation

You'll need the funny star socket for the U-Joint to disconnect the drive shaft, a plug for the trans tail shaft to keep the fluid from leaking all over the place and a clutch alignment tool. And a puller for the pilot bearing

Can't think of any other specialty tools needed. It's a pretty simple straightforward job


Thanks for the heads up. Will disconnect the batt and mark the driveshaft.

Do you think I could just replace the Disc since the clutch is not completely fried or do I need to get a whole clutch pack (pressure plate + disc) and resurface the flywheel?


You could replace just the disc as long as the surfaces of the pressure plate and flywheel are not damaged

However, you may have issues from having an unmatched assembly that is not balanced. I've always just replaced the whole thing

Flywheel
Clutch Disc
Pressure Plate
Pilot Bearing
Throwout Bearing
Clutch Cable (OEM one piece only!!!) optionally depending on wear at the quadrant. Look for signs of fraying. Having a spare clutch cable is cheap insurance against getting stranded

My 11.964 run I trapped 116.68 with a 1.78 60' and a 7.722 1/8th @ 92.52 MPH. I am running the stock 3.55 gears and I think that affects the acceleration in the back half a bunch resulting in higher ET and lower trap speeds. The leverage advantage of 4.10's is noticeable. It takes a really good installer to swap the gears and not get a vibe from the diff. You are going to sacrifice highway RPM doing that swap. I've always thought 3.90 was the ideal compromise ratio, opinions vary
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